There are so many different versions of how the Cristo Negro (Black Christ) statue found its way to Portobelo, it’s hard to decide which one has validity. But regardless to which story you hear, fact or fiction, for the last three centuries, tens of thousands of people have made a pilgrimage to visit the mythical effigy in this tiny community on the Caribbean side of Panama. My travel companion/translator and I would join those thousands this past October at the Black Christ Festival.
We decided to leave Panama City before daybreak to get a head start because October 21st, being the last of the four day celebration, the village would be swamped with a mass of worshipers, festival folks and curious tourists like us. The closer we got to Portobelo, like a rural Irish road flocked with shepherded sheep the narrow double lane paved drive began to swell with more people making it almost impassable by car. Some of these diehard believers walking inches along side our car have traversed as far as the 53 miles from Panama City, and many were even crawling the last mile on hands and knees to worship the purple robed icon. You can see the determined fatigue and anticipation through the sweat on their faces.
For some of these purple robed pilgrims, I’m told the crawling gesture announces they are confessed sinners repenting of their wrongdoing. For those walking upright, wearing the color purple simply makes an expression of faith.
Along their route, they receive public words of encouragement for their devotion to the religious icon. Some are bedecked with miniature shrines decorated like the Christ figure and garnished with burnt offerings of money, jewelry or other personal artifacts. Some even drag a life size wooden cross as a penance. Other walkers are pacified with cups of water to quench their arid throats from the long walk. A few shirtless pilgrims even accept melted wax poured on their backs mimicking the lashes Christ received on the way to his crucifixion.
Some Panamanians regard the Black Christ as the Patron Saint of criminals because a lot of the followers are muggers, burglars, and drug dealers. Chris who is Panamanian, but has lived in Denver, Colorado for fifteen years says, “I don’t criticize the people for how they believe, but I think they are hypocrites because they ask for forgiveness and turn around and do bad deeds again.” Others I spoke with share his belief.
Talking with Carlos, a lifelong resident of Portobelo and an employee with the Museo Del Cristo Negro de Portobelo said the festival has turned to paganism. The once sacred observance has turned into a sacrilegious carnival. He says, “Since the 17th century, Portobelo has been the home of the Black Christ. The Cristo has magic powers to most devotees. The sick and troubled make promises to the Cristo with hope of receiving blessings. The belief is, if they make a promise and it is not kept, there will be severe retribution.” He goes on to explain that there are many conflicting explanations to it’s presence in this village. One story holds that the ship carrying the statue met a terrible storm and was driven back into the harbor. The ship attempted to leave several times, but each time a sudden storm endangered the ship and everyone aboard. To lessen the weight, it was decided to leave the heavy statue in port. The towns' folk were amazed at the lack of respect shown by the sailors, so they carried the Black Christ to their church and gave it a place of honor next to the pulpit.
Carlos says many attempts were made to send the statue to the island of Tobago it's initial destination, but all attempts failed. Finally, suspecting the statue had magical powers, the people of Portobelo excepted their fate and allowed the statue to remain with them. He says out of all the versions, there are three similarities in each story: (1) it arrived from Spain, (2) the refusal of the statue to leave Portobelo, and (3) everyone thinks it has an admired appearance.
Throughout the year, the life sized statue sits encased on the right side of the pulpit at the Islesia de San Felipe (church) adorned in a wine colored robe. For Holy Week, the robe is changed to purple and the icon is moved to the middle of the church. During the week, believers fasten various prayer pins to the garment of the life size figure with faith that their prayers will be answered.
Mass is called at 6 p.m. on October 21st. At 8 p.m., the platformed statue is carried from the church by 80 men moving in a harmonious cadence of three steps forward and two back similar to Spanish religious processions. The dancing statue is followed by a lively band of drummers, horn players, and a multitude of worshipers. The cavorting parade goes around the village until midnight when the icon is safely returned to the church. One account says that it is impossible to return the statue to its resting place before midnight because it gets too heavy.
Word to the wise: try and get a hotel room on the far side of Portobelo, so you can avoid the midnight after-festival traffic going back to Colon or Panama City. We thought ahead and made reservations on the tranquil island of Isla Grande, a short 12 kilometer drive from the hotel-less Portobelo. After all the hooplah from the festival, you’ll savor the peacefulness of this pedestrian island that’s only reachable by water taxi. There are about six hotels to choose from and they are all reasonably priced. For hotel accommodations and details just Google Isla Grande in Panama. To see more photographs from the festival, please go to FaceBook-Michael Bracey - Chicago.
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